Central Asian Textiles

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Textile collecting was always an integral part of our research process. For many years, we traveled through northern Afghanistan collecting textiles and information about them in Tashkurgan, Aibak, Mazar-i-Sharif, Aqcha, and Maimana.

Our textile collections have been a great resource for our writing, have been shown in museum exhibitions, and have brought us great personal enjoyment and pleasure. See the Articles section of this website for an introductory view of the history and cultural background of Central Asian ikat and Uzbek and Turkoman embroidery. For more detailed information, look to our books Ikat Silks of Central Asia, the Guido Goldman Collection, Calmann and King, 1996 and the new Uzbek Embroidery in the Steppe Tradition, the Jack A. and Aviva Robinson Collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, MIA, 2007.

Amu Darya region Turkoman embroidery remains one of the least published but superb Central Asian textile traditions; if it seems that we are hinting that we would love to write that book, you are right. The rare Turkoman cuffs, bags, and elek (protective collars for children) shown below are unusual, authentic examples of embroidery from a little-known cultural tradition. The Turkoman embroidered and felted bread bags had tremendous social significance in Turkoman society, as the ritual delivery and presentation of breads formed part of many social interactions such as weddings and birth celebrations.  Other noteworthy pieces are the authentic Lakai or Kungrat v-shaped segusha, the ikat robe (we have other ikat and plain silk robes and garments to come) and the more recently acquired examples of charming, mid-twentieth century suzani embroideries from Uzbekistan.

Click here to see different types of textiles!
IKAT and COSTUME    SHAHRISABS and BUKHARA    SUZANI     LAKAI and KUNGRAT    TURKOMAN EMBROIDERY    other TEXTILES




TEX145  Central Asian Resist Dye, Silk, 54" x 53", Early to Mid 20th Century,  2 small runs, $500

Central Asian Ikat Panel, Silk, Late 19th/Early 20th Century 38.5" x 17" This ikat panel demonstrates a rare warp manipulation process. Instead of the typical division of warps to form a mirror image along the vertical axis of a single ikat panel, the warps have been divided and one half of each of the bundles lifted out and placed along the edge of the other set of bundles. Then, one of the sets of warps was moved vertically against the other set so that there were different color motifs next to one another. Only then was the panel actually woven. The end result is to give the appearance of two non-aligned ikat panels within a single woven structure. Both the Guido Goldman Collection and the Textile Museum have a single example of this warp arrangement, one of which is shown in illustration #97 of Ikat Silks of Central Asia, the Guido Goldman Collection on page 185.
price: $250
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 Silk Velvet Ikat "Baghmal" Panel, 1870s, 60 x 47 inches, In excellent condition-no tears, runs or worn areas, $4500
 
 
 TEX_0113 Uzbek Boots, leather, late 19th/early 20th century 9.5" x 14.5" $850

 ETH067  Pair of Leather Shoes from Northern Afghanistan, 10" x 4", With brass studs and embroidery, About 50 years old, $150
  TEX_0124 Adras Ikat Chapan Length: 43.5"
Sleeves: 59" 19th Century $3,000

TEX_0125 Ikat Dress Length: 49" Sleeves: 66"
One 1.5" split in sleeve, repairable 19th Century $500

 
 






TEX146 Central Asian Batik, Silk, 8'3" x 4'5", Early 20th Century, $800

TEX149  Central Asian Ikat Hanging, Silk, 57" x 95",  Late 19th Century, Some stains, $1400
 
 
 TEX_0051 1036 Antique Khivan Coat 57 x 46 in $250.00


 
 
TEX_0064 5734 Central Asian Alacha  Striped Silk Paranja length 61 in $600.00

Reverse
  


Kohistan Dress from Northern Pakistan, Silk Embroidery on Cotton with Shell and Plastic Buttons, Zipper,etc. Nice example from old collection. Unlike more recent imports, this doesn't have a bad smell and so is wearable/displayable. Many pleats-very heavy!  $1000

 
 
 


TEX_0137 Khiva Quilted Coat, Cotton Wefted Silk, Early 20th Century, Sleeves 48", Length 41.5 $200

Central Asian Hat from Andkhoi, Northern Afghanistan, Silk Embroidery on Silk, Silver Ornament with Feathers, Silver Beads  $200



 
 
 TEX_0138  Ikat Chapan, Unlined, Silk, Late 19th Century  Sleeves: 77" Length: 53"  HOLD

TEX_139  Ikat Dress, Unlined, Silk, Late 19th Century, Sleeves: 73"  Length: 51"  $500
 
 
 
  TEX147  Central Asian Batik, Silk, 90" x 46", Early 20th Century, $900 Detail TEX147 
   
 Women's "Munisak" Coat, All Silk Ikat with Cotton Lining, Some tears and minor stains, not for wearing but a good example for display  HOLD
 Back of coat
 
 
 
 


 Afghan Beadwork, Glass beads, cotton, Pashtun from South Eastern Afghanistan, An old, exceptional example, probably used on the bottom of a shawl, 20 x 54 inches with fringe  $800 Detail 
   
   
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